Food drama, but not memorable
Restaurant: Molecule Air Bar
Reviewer: Aalok Wadhwa | 9th January 2016 | Reviewer Rating (Out of 5) 3.50

Molecule can be perplexing at first. When I enter the half finished building and go up to the 4th floor taking the tiny lift, I enter a pleasant space with a good view of the sector 29 market. On closer inspection I realize that the theme of the restaurant is World War 2 with a lot of paraphernalia mounted on the wall. Theme WW2, and name molecule? What is the connection?

                                        Interiors

My doubt is clarified by the owner and restaurateur Manish Sharma. “I have been fascinated by Adolf Hitler and the war. Hitler was a man ahead of his times. Hence the decor based on World War 2.”

              The World War Wall                       Manish Sharma - Owner, Molecule

Looking at the menu, the name of the restaurant seems to be a derivative of molecular gastronomy. So now feeling less perplexed, I dig into the complimentary amuse bouche of a fairly bland cauliflower soup with baby pesto lavash served on an army truck. Molecular puchka shots (Rs 125) has elaborate paraphernalia to get to a puchka, with syringes and test tubes. The puchkas are crispy and nice, made of rice and wheat flour but the five varieties of water do not have to punch that is so needed.

                     Cauliflower soup                                   Molecular Puchka shots

I sample the cocktails. Neither Apple Cider (Rs 300) nor Cucumber Basil Lemonade (Rs 300) is impressive. Manish clarifies that their bar menu is work in progress and pretty soon, the restaurant will have its own signature cocktails. As of right now, the bar menu is pretty clichéd with all the usual suspects only, apart from the two cocktails I tasted.

    

               Apple Cider                       Cucumber Basil Lemonade

Dragon smoke popcorn (Rs 125) has been finished in liquid nitrogen. Chilled popcorns can be fun in the first bite, but go soggy after a couple of minutes. De-constructed Tokri Chaat (Rs 465) is not a dish, it is a ceremony requiring the chef going through a five minute long process with his liquid nitrogen to make it. The end result does not however capture the magic, and is ordinary.

            Dragon smoke popcorn                      De-constructed Tokri Chaat

Veg Biryani Arancini (Rs 145) is interesting though I personally find the biryani masala somewhat overpowering the dish. Slow Roast tomato & Basil soup (Rs 145) is bland.

             Veg Biryani Arancini                       Slow Roast tomato & Basil soup

Grilled Sosati Shrimps (Rs 195) are overcooked and leathery and so are the Tandoori Balchao prawns (Rs 475).

             Grilled Sosati Shrimps                        Tandoori Balchao prawns

Cajun Crusted Fish (Rs 395) is interesting though I wish they had not used Basa here. Ghee Roast Keema Matar (Rs 345) is one dish here that I finally enjoy, though I do not care much for the hanging mini paranthas accompanying it because they have gone dry.

              Cajun Crusted Fish                            Ghee Roast keema Matar

Imitation of Ras Malai (Rs 350) again is an elaborate presentation of the dessert where chef cooks the rasmalai with liquid nitrogen. Again it is fun to see the process, and the end result again is much ado about nothing.

                             Imitation of Ras Malai

On the positive side, Molecule has a great view, and reasonable prices. But the food and drinks both in my opinion can be better. But these are early days and I am sure with the active hands on involvement of Manish Sharma things will improve.

Please note: This review was done on an invitation from the restaurant to taste their food, and no bill was presented to the author. While the author assures you of objectivity, the review may be influenced by the personalized attention the author got.

Ratings (Out of 5)

Food: 3.0 | Ambience: 3.5 | Service: 3.5 | Value: 4.0 | Overall: 3.5

Meal for two: Rs.2000 | Alcohol: Yes | Credit Card: Yes | Wheel chair friendly: Yes

Address: SCO 53, 4th Floor, Sector 29, Gurgaon. Tel: +91 8826677705, +91 9911111863

About the Author
Aalok Wadhwa Aalok Wadhwa
Restaurant Information
Molecule Air Bar Molecule Air Bar
Molecule Air Bar Sector 29, Delhi NCR, India address SCO 53, 4th Floor, Sector 29, Gurgaon
Telephone: +91 8826677705 , +91 9911111863 view on a map
Opening Hours: 12 Noon to 12 Midnight
Average Price: Rs. 1800 - 2000