Great Concept, Iffy Food
Reviewer: Aalok Wadhwa | 1st May 2016 | Reviewer Rating (Out of 5) 3.63

Atul Kochhar is an Indian born, British based chef, restaurateur and television personality. Kochhar is one of the most critically acclaimed chefs in Britain for his take on modern Indian cuisine, and has a Michelin star, for his Benares restaurant in London. He has forayed into Mumbai with two interesting restaurant concepts. In Mumbai this time around, I am all determined to try out both these places.

The first one is NRI, based on the strong concept of Indian food as has been adapted in various commonwealth countries. While the concept is great, the execution misses the mark on many dishes.

The interiors are understated and underwhelming with the bar and dessert cart as being the prominent features. There are some quirky touches like a hawker cart with mason jar of spices, Kiss Me candies, and jeera goli etc. The seating is casual and the whole place has a pleasant open feel.

I start the meal with an interesting curry leaf infused Mumbai Martini (Rs 525), straight from the Benares’ restaurant menu.

         Mumbai Martini

The grilled fruits or Phaldaari Chaat (Rs 300) is nice but no big deal. The twist to Hummus with Pind Da Hummus (Rs 275) with desi spices is served with a fluffy daal wada. This dish is great and I am going to try this version of hummus at home.

 

                 Phaldaari Chaat                                  Pind Da Hummus

Now on to the carnivore menu, Benaras Special Karara Kekda (Rs 1250) is made with soft shell crab. It is just about OK, certainly not deserving of the price tag. Indian Accent does a much more memorable version of the same dish. The true-Brit-with-curry-powder Potted Shrimps (Rs 650) is a lovely spread with a wholesome taste.

      Benaras Special Karara Kekda                         Potted Shrimps

The same cannot be said for Indian Brit Fish N Chips with Chonka Muttar (Rs 375) which totally misses the mark. The fish is dry, the peas are dry and the whole dish has no redeeming quality. Ti Cari D Agneau (Rs 400) is a great dish for offal lovers like me. It is rich, creamy and cooked well.

     Fish N Chips with Chonka Muttar                   Ti Cari D Agneau

Chicken Liver Masala on Toast (Rs 375) is pleasant. Caribbean Goat Masala (Rs 625) is the dish I am looking forward to the most, is a disappointing dish, which does not capture the soul of curry goat.

       Chicken Liver Masala on Toast                   Caribbean Goat Masala

Bunny Chow mutton (Rs 575), the other dish I am looking forward to trying is good, and a close approximation of the Durban classic. Dessert of the day (Rs 225) is a chocolate something from the desserts trolley, and is unimpressive.

        Bunny Chow mutton                                   Dessert of the day

NRI is a great concept. I wish the food was as strong as the concept.

 

The review was anonymously done after paying for the meal.

Ratings (Out of 5)                                         

Food: 3.5 | Ambience: 3.5 | Service: 4.0 | Value: 3.5 | Overall: 3.5

Meal for two: Rs.2000 | Alcohol: Yes | Credit Card: Yes | Wheel chair friendly: Yes

Address: G 2,Maker Maxity, BKC, Bandra (East), Mumbai 400051

Tel 022 30005040, 022 30005041

 

About the Author
Aalok Wadhwa Aalok Wadhwa
Restaurant Information
NRI Not Really Indian NRI Not Really Indian
2 North Avenue, Maker Maxity, Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai 4000051
Telephone: 022 30005040, 022 30005041 view on a map
Opening Hours:
Average Price: Rs. 2000 - 2500