Indian Accent is the finest restaurants in India and among the finest in the world. The man behind the restaurant, Chef Manish Mehrotra is a culinary Dumbledore, very much in touch with his roots as well as the fine craft of world cuisine. I would like to say upfront that he has been my favourite chef for a long time. Every meal of his is an adventure, and each time I have dined at Indian Accent, he has wowed me with completely unexpected flavours. So readers are advised to read on, keeping my soft spot for this restaurant in mind.

This time we have come here for a celebration, booking well in advance. I am delighted to find Manish in Delhi and at the restaurant. We start the tasting menu with the amuse bouche of delicious baby blue cheese naans. And then the delights start rolling in. First is the favourite potato sphere chaat, white peas ragda and golden garlic raita. The potato is deep fried crisp, and it breaks into the ragda. When topped with the raita, it makes for a great bite.

                Blue Cheese Nan                               Potato Sphere Chat

Beetroot and peanut butter tikki is a new entrant to the menu.  It is an unusual  combination – the zing of caper wasabi chutney, sweetness of the beetroot and the nuttiness of the peanut butter makes it quite a treat. 

                 Beetroot Tikki                                       Soft Shell Crabs

An old favourite of mine, soft shell crabs with flame roasted coconut have been dusted in idli podi (gunpowder) and then fried, and served with fried kadhi patta, making this dish work at various levels. It is the papad of the baked basa fish with white bait papad dish which is the hero, made of what looks like a zillion tiny fish. 

      Baked Fish with White Bait Papad                  Podi coated Tofu Cutlet

Duck khurchan cornetto with duck liver butter is an interesting experience of eating some nicely cooked khurchan inside a cone.Tuna ceviche with crushed kurkure is another masterpiece. Ceviche is a seafood dish popular in Central and South America. The dish is typically made from fresh raw fish cured in lime, and spiced with chilies. Here this dish is perfectly created and the pairing with kurkure tastes just right. It is a thoroughly enjoyable dish.

                   Tuna Ceviche                               Duck Khurchan Cornetto

After a palate cleanser of the pomegranate and churan kulfi sorbet, and nearly bursting at the seams, I embark on the main course. The first item to be served is yet another memorable dish - Kashmiri morel mussallam, with crushed roast walnut and parmesan papad. Here the chef has showcased the beautiful morel in its full glory, accentuating the umami taste with the addition of apricot dust and the parmesan papad. It is easily one of the best vegetarian dishes I have ever had.

               Anar Churan Sorbet                    Kashmiri Morel with Parmesan Papad

Meetha achaar flavoured Chilean spare ribs with sundried mango (aam papad) is a big favourite here. The achaar and the aam papad cut the fattiness of some excellent quality pork ribs. Rice crusted John Dory moilee is a modern day version of a Kerala classic. This is the only dish where I feel that it could taste better with a lighter, less creamy sauce.

               Achaari Spare Ribs                            Chicken Phulka Taco

Slow cooked lamb shank made in the Kashmiri aab gosht style and cooked overnight with walnuts is delicious.

             Lamb Shank with Walnuts                          Muradabadi Dal

Now on to the desserts. Daulat ki chaat made the Lucknow way captures the dish in all its fineness. But what is totally addictive is the warm doda barfi treacle tart which captures the essence of Manish’s cooking style. 

                   Daulat ki Chaat                                    Doda Tart

Take a popular Indian sweet, re engineer it in the grammar of the west and create unforgettable dishes. Gajar ka halwa tart is yet another such example.

                  Gajar Halwa Tart                             Mouth Freshener Khat

But the best is unveiled at the end. Black truffle ice cream. It is a simple ice cream generously infused with fresh black truffle shavings. And it is phenomenal. Every time I visit Indian Accent, there are many surprises, but always one dish that blows my mind. In my last visit it was the dear departed foie gras galauti, and this time it is this ice cream. I will not even attempt to describe the taste – it is to be tasted.

              Black Truffle Icecream                          Mouth Freshener Khaat

Despite the near two hour drive from Gurgaon, Indian Accent is worth a visit for its accessible yet brilliant food.

Please note: The author paid for the meal

Ratings (Out of 5)

Food: 4.5 | Ambience: 4.0 | Service: 4.5 | Value: 4.5 | Overall: 4.5

Meal for two: Rs.6000 | Alcohol: Yes | Credit Card: Yes | Wheel chair friendly: Yes

Address: The Manor, 77, Friends Colony, New Delhi.Tel:011 43235151, +91 9871117968